A Diva's Guide to the Perfect Hair Cut & Hair Style
"Don't have your Haircut or Hair colored without consulting My guide to the sexiest looks out there.

HAIRCUTS: Short, fresh, sexy and all out confident

  THE PIXIE

Who it works for: Your face is front and center with this cut, so you've got to feel good about your skin and your features if You're going to try it

Tell your hairstylist: You'll need short, different length bangs. Avoiding blunt, even pieces. Part of the fun of this style is the choppy, unabashedly messy look of your hair

Maintenance: Keep it looking fresh with a monthly trim. Style it by slicking bangs down a la Twiggy, or pushing them to the side for a sweet, girly effect

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  THE NATURAL AFRO

Who it works for: A chic, low maintenance style for very curly Or African American hair. Tailor it to look funky or minimal. Either way, styling it is easy

Tell your hairstylist: Your hair should be an inch long at most, but if you want a style with more height, leave it just under three inches

Maintenance: Keep the shape by picking your hair out and tying a silk scarf over it, patting the hair until it's even. Get it reshaped every two to four weeks

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  THE LONG AND SHORT

Who it works for: Oval shaped faces look terrific with this style. It adds amazing body and life to fine, straight hair. For waves, it has a rocker vibe

Tell your hairstylist: Keep layers long in back and choppy all around. This cut is all about movement. Add heavy, uneven bangs. They can be tucked behind ears or left in front of face.

Maintenance: To keep it fresh, get it cut every two months

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  SHORT BOB

Who it works for: Looks fabulous on oval or square faces. If your face is very round, go for a longer version. Hair has to be poker straight

Tell your hairstylist: The longest piece of hair should fall an inch above the chin, so you get that face hugging effect

Maintenance: If you want to keep this really polished, you'll be in the salon monthly

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  BLUNT BOB

Who it works for: Nothing makes fine hair look thicker than a power bob. Unless you straighten it every day, this hairstyle doesn't work for curly hair

Tell your hairstylist: Ask for a blunt line, a shaggy one emphasizes thin hair. Get bangs above the brow. A more severe fringe gives this hairstyle its sharpness

Maintenance: Trim every six weeks to keep the shape. Blow it straight to style and finish with a flatiron

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  SHORT SHAG

Who it works for: this cut suits most hair types except super thick and super fine hair. It looks amazing on delicate faces with small features.

Tell your hairstylist: The longest hair should be at the crown. Ashley Judd style, rather than at the back of the head Mullet style

Maintenance: Get a trim every four to six weeks, short hair grows fast. Styling this hair cut is easy. Pump up damp roots with a volumizer take the sides and blow-dry them while tousling. Finish by kicking the ends out with your fingers

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  CURLY BOB

Who it works for: A round face should have hair longer than the chin and a bit longer on the neck to balance this style. Obviously, you'll need curls but if yours are in spiral be careful not to cut it too short

Tell your hairstylist: To keep the length at your cheekbones as curls retract at least an inch. Cutting individual curls will create some choppiness and avoid bulkiness.

Maintenance: This cut already has shape, so you don't need tons of products. Trim every six weeks.

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  ROMANTIC BOB

Who it works for: This works best on wavy medium to fine hair. Thick hair will end up too poufy.

Tell your hairstylist: This cut should fall to about the middle of your neck. Long layers will give it that dreamy, whimsical feel.

Maintenance: Keep it springy and pretty by blow-drying it with a diffuser and by visiting your stylist about every six to eight weeks for a trim.

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  ANGLED BOB

Who it works for: This cut thins out round faces. If you have narrower features, you may want to rethink this. It will only make your face appear longer. Though it works on most hair types, it's the easies to style if your hair is fine and straight.

Tell your hairstylist: To Use a razor on the ends. It texturizes the hair leaving the back soft and not so harsh.

Maintenance: If your hair is a bit on the thick side, weigh it down with a shine or straightening product. Get it trimmed every six to eight weeks.

HAIRCUTS FOR SEXY LOOKING MEDIUM TO LONG HAIR

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  PANELING

Who it works for: This cut works beautifully on fine hair. It's a short, edgier twist on layers that give you more volume. Hair that's too thick ends up looking like a mullet.

Tell your hairstylist: Instead of cutting on top of the hair, pull up the top layer and cut shorter, more angular pieces underneath.

Maintenance: Don't wash your hair everyday unless it's really oily. This style looks very "Bad Girl" when it's a little dirty.

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  MEDIUM SHAG

Who it works for: Most people, except those with very curly or frizzy hair. Because the layers are adjusted to suit your face shape, it's easy to pull off.

Tell your hairstylist: Ask for choppy, uneven, tapered ends. There should be layers in the front and back.

Maintenance: Thanks to the uneven, broken-up layers, this hair still looks good when it's grown out, but to keep the look, have it cut every six to eight weeks.

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  WAVY SHAG

Who it works for: Those who want a sexy, messy-on-purpose style. Very fine hair might look too sparse with this look.

Tell your hairstylist: Keep the layers long. Because the hair is wavy, too many choppy pieces will be prone to frizz. If hair is naturally wavy the razor should be used sparingly as it could cause frizz. If hair is straight and fine then the razor is key for adding some texture.

Maintenance: Add some waves to straight hair or amp up natural curl with a curling iron.

HAIR CUTS FOR ALL-OUT-SEXY LONG HAIR

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  LONG SHAG

Who it works for: People who want rock star texture and style, but without the fuss. A little product and air-drying is all you need to style. This cut adds texture to fine hair and lightens thick hair.

Tell your hairstylist: The shortest layers should hit the bottom of your ears. Use scissors not a razor to leave ends feathery.

Maintenance: Cut every 3 or 4 months though you may go about 7 months without ill effects.

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  LONG WITH BANGS

Who it works for: This cut emphasizes eyes and cheeks. Long faces need bangs to cover the eyebrows; round faces look best with choppier bangs.

Tell your hairstylist: Start with long bangs they are the most flexible. Curve the fringe so the pieces on the sides are longer it's more flattering than dead straight across.

Maintenance: Get a trim every 10 weeks or so.

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  LONG CURLS

Who it works for: Long curls are incredibly sexy as long as you have patience to style them. Hair must be naturally curly and at least a few inches past the shoulders.

Tell your hairstylist: Always cut hair dry with the shortest layers at the lip. Thin the hair a bit throughout to create separation and make it looser and easier to style.

Maintenance: Style when it's damp, after that no touching! Since ends are not that noticeable you don't have to trim so often.

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  LONG STRAIGHT

Who it works for: With the exception of baby-fine hair, which will look limp, this popular look works on most types of hair. But since long straight hair has nowhere to hide it should be in tip-top shape.

Tell your hairstylist: Be firm! Hairstylists always want to give a hair a "cut" but don't be intimidated. Slight layering on the ends will help the cut grow out.

Maintenance: A minimal trim every 4-6 weeks is great for getting rid of split ends.

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  LONG AND NATURAL

Who it works for: Either extremely curly or African American hair with lots of length. If you don't have longhair, get a weave, which lasts 3 months.

Tell your hairstylist: No Razors! Only Scissors should be used to cut this style otherwise you risk frizz. Hot rollers make the best loose but volumey ringlets

Maintenance: Make curls last by tying on a silk scarf at bedtime then you only need to wash them weekly.

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  LONG LAYERS

Who it works for: Those who love the look of long, Gisele-like hair, but want volume and versatility.

Tell your hairstylist: Layers should start at about an inch below chin length. If it's too short and you'll end up with "The Rachel." Layer the back as well so you get movement and a nice curve throughout the hair.

Maintenance: To avoid straggly ends, get a trim every 3 months and don't over-wash your hair. Long layers actually look better a few days after washing.

HARI COLOR

For Every Kind of Streak There Is A Hair Colorist Willing To Apply It

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  BALAYAGE

The French use this method to achieve more lightening on the ends of the hair (It is more natural this way as hair should always be darker on the base of the hair shaft or the root area) and less on the roots as with traditional highlights in America.

Bleach or a lightening product is painted on without using foils. Instead a brush and paddle are used in a sweeping motion giving the hair colorist a bit more room to play and less methodical streaks.

This method can be used to accent facial features. It brings out the eyes by adding bolder pieces of color at eye level.

Balayage is more carefree than highlights, and because the streak isn't as define, it looks edgier and more artsy.

Maintenance: Touch up every 3-4 months

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  HIGHLIGHTS

Highlights blend two or three shades of color for a hand-of-nature effect. Or, for a more significant statement it is applied using a bleach or lightening product.

They add warmth to skin and give the hair texture and depth. It's like what a surfer's hair would look like, natural and funky.

Maintenance: They should be updated every 4-6 weeks if you've lightened your hair color a lot (a heavy weave). If you have natural-looking highlights then 3-6 months is good. At homes kits are really bad to achieve this effect, as they don't lighten enough unless you are a natural blonde.

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  THE SKUNK

Though getting an oversize stripe of color seems like it'd be simple, it's not! You need to be the type of person who takes care of their hair, someone who wears the makeup and dresses the part.

Stacking foils very tightly to create a streak at least on inch wide creates the look. Or, 1 inch panels close to the scalp about 1 inch apart is also another method.

Contrary to the name, you don't have to go for high-contrast hair color. A lighter red on redheads, or a honey streak on brunettes.

Maintenance: it takes only 15-20 minutes, but you have to retouch the roots once a month.

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  TIPPING

Here, a hair colorist basically takes just the ends of hair and lightens them, either by painting on the color or by using foils for a dramatic effect. Go a few shades lighter then your own natural hair color and keep it piecey and chunky.

This look is perfect for straight hair with a bit of body.

Maintenance: The great news is if you don't like it, the hair color is easy to cut off and grows out with your hair. As a result, it looks great for 3 months at a time.

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  BAD HAIR COLOR AND HOW TO FIX IT

Unless you've gone jet-black or platinum, hair color is always fixable. In most cases, the right color is only a toner or a few extra highlights away.

Call the Salon: Hair Colorists may fix it for free (fixing it may or may not involve several appointments or a hair color correction). If not, color-enhancing shampoos are your best friends.

If a shade's too brassy Purple will even out the tone. Yellow will add warmth if the hair color is too ashy, or too green.

If your shade is too dark, use a few drops of Dawn Liquid Detergent or an intense hot oil treatment with heat. It will take the hair color down a notch without damaging your hair at all.

MORE ON HAIR COLOR

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  DOUBLE PROCESS VERSUS SINGLE PROCESS

Double: If you want to go blonde and your hair's brown, this is a cheaper and more effective than a whole head of highlights. First the base color is bleached, and then a new color is deposited.

This is great on people who have café au lait, tan, olive, or peaches-and-cream skin. Don't get it if your hair is longer than shoulder length or it it's fine.

Maintenance: HIGH! It takes from 2-3 hours; bring a novel with you to the salon. Roots should be redone every 2-3 weeks to keep the color looking natural.

Single: Single process is a lightening and deposit process that leaves you with one all-over hair color, in a single one-process step.

There are many reasons in choosing it; you can lighten your hair without using highlighting foils (which takes hours and costs much more).

It gives fine hair body and lift, and is a great way to camouflage gray.

If you're a brunette who loves her hair dark, go one level lighter than your own hair color to liven it up. For black hair color that's going gray use dark brown.

If you are not sure on what hair color to use then I suggest you go for the lightest hair color (in case it's not what you expected you can always go darker). If you chose a hair color level that is way too dark it can be much harder to lighten later without spending lots of money for a hair color correction that could damage your hair.

Maintenance: A single process will take about an hour. Expect to do half-hour root touch ups every 2-4 weeks.

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  PICKING THE RIGHT HAIR COLOR

• Warm tones bring out the pink in our skin so if you've got redness to your skin, go for cool tones like champagne, sandy or ash blonde, or cool browns.

• If your skin is olive-toned or ashy, use warm gold or reds.

• Red is the hardest color to maintain. The shade will change almost from shampoo to shampoo so be prepared for the fade.

• To make the hair color look natural, choose coppery-reds versus blue-reds. Think Irish setter versus red wine.

• An easy way to see, rather than guess, what color your hair will come out is to take a strand test! Take a stand of your hair from the nape of your neck and let the hair color sit on it for 20 minutes.

• Bring pictures! "Honey" or "Chocolate" can mean very different things to different hair colorists.

• You've got the wrong hair color if your have to wear more makeup than you did before. When the hair color works correctly, your skin tone comes alive. Hair color should make your face glow.

• Be honest with your hair colorist (and yourself) about how much time you're willing to spend having your roots touched up. Doing conditioning treatments and more.

• There are high-maintenance options and low-maintenance ones. The further away from your natural color you go the more your hair requires.

• Don't blow-dry single process highlights every single day take a rest on weekends and deep condition once a week.

• If your hair's the same color you had when you were young, think twice about tinting it. I spend most of my time taking clients back to the hair color they had when they were young.

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  AFRICAN AMERICAN HAIR COLOR

African-American hair is incredibly fragile, and it's already undergone chemical processes like straightening or perming, It's even more vulnerable to damage.

It's important to use hair color that's not too harsh or your hair will just end up fried.

For golden skin I suggest doing a few golden highlights, honey looks great with darker hair, either way, use a gentle shampoo and conditioner.

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  NO-BLEACH ALTERNATIVES

Rinse or Glaze: They both do not contain bleach or ammonia.

A rinse is a semi-permanent hair color. It stains only the cuticle that fades away in 6-8 shampoos. There is no mixing and should be used straight out of the bottle.

A glaze is a demi-permanent hair color that does not lift or lighten. It penetrates the cuticle and deposits hair color into the cortex.

Demi-permanent hair color works with very low peroxide that won't damage the hair. It deepens hair color throughout the whole head of hair.

It's good for toning down bleached-out, brassy, end-of-summer highlights and enhancing your natural hair color. It can also be used as a tint back to natural hair color or on sensitive overly damaged hair. Plus, it seals the cuticle, making hair color ultra glossy.

Maintenance: It takes 10-15 minutes for a glaze or rinse. If you have the demi-permanent hair color there could be a bit of a line if you started out with lighter hair color. So, return every few months for a tone down.

Lowlights: As the name suggest, lowlights don't lighten hair, Instead a hair colorist strategically deposits hair color throughout hair adding depth and contrast.

"I use lowlights all the time. If a color has gotten too uniform from front to back, lowlights create dimension."

Maintenance: Ridiculously easy. They take about an hour to do and you never actually have to get them redone.

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  BANGS

Bangs are really hot right now. Everyone wants them. Whether they are short and choppy or long and shaggy, bangs suit nearly every type of hair except extremely curly.

Even if your hair is curly you can now do spot thermal reconditioning on bangs (around $100-$250) and in an hour even the curliest hair can have straight, glossy fringe.

Ask your hair stylist to use scissors for a soft, blunt look, and a razor for textured, fringy bangs.

Maintenance: Light style spray keeps bangs smooth and cowlick-free. If you cut bangs yourself (at your own risk), you must, must cut them dry. They'll look longer when wet, and be shorter than you realized when they're dry.

Texture: Straighteners and Perms

Between the new Japanese straightening treatment and the many advances in perm technology, you can achieve just about any texture you want.

I work with a lot of people who have very curly of fine hair. If they have fine, straight hair and want a shaggy hair cut like Cameron Diaz, who also has very fine hair then I suggest a soft body wave perm.

Body waves take about an hour and a half and have to be redone every four months.

Japanese straightening isn't as harsh as a regular relaxer, it also leaves hair shiny and so straight you don't have to blow-dry at all. Getting a Japanese straightening is much less damaging than a flatiron or blow dryer day after day, and it lasts until your hair grows out.

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  FIX SPLIT ENDS

There is only one way to actually get rid of split ends, Cut Them Off!

Conditioner: both in the shower and once you're out. Helps the appearance of split ends. Use conditioning shampoo while you are at it

Quick temporary fix: Put gloss serum on the ends and seal it in with a hot iron. It tortures your hair, but who cares it works temporarily.


Nanci Cascio All Rights Reserved.





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